My daughter decided to celebrate her birthday on February 24th by taking a group of nine women to Bath County to enjoy the Jefferson Baths at Warm Springs and then to The Homestead for lunch. 

What fun we had! Six of us met at a parking lot for a local club here in Charlottesville and got into a large Jeep belonging to one of my granddaughters. She was our chauffeur down to  Warm Springs and beyond. It was relaxing to have a young woman drive us. She is confident on the road. Someone asked her if it was hard for her to manage such a big vehicle, parking, and so on. She said, “Well, before this, I had a truck for many years.” Seeing her completely at ease driving the roomy and very comfortable SUV made me smile. My granddaughters are competent and well-balanced. I am so proud of them.

We laughed and chatted all the way to  Warm Springs. Even in the winter, it is a beautiful drive. Since it was Monday, the traffic was light all the way, and once we arrived, it was not crowded. We had an appointment for 11 a.m. and arrived a few minutes early. Our other three guests, who drove together, arrived a minute or two after we did. We were allowed to choose whether we wanted to go in the men’s bathhouse or the women’s because it was Monday and no one was there except us. My daughter chose the men’s baths because she said, “I have never been in them.” It is a slightly smaller structure than the women’s bath.   Both are charming, old-fashioned, and architecturally appealing.

Many years ago, they used to supply colorful cotton bathing costumes to the bathers, but that time has passed. We all brought our bathing suits; they provided towels, and we changed in the little spaces curtained off for that purpose. We were given a charcoal grey “noodle” to use as a floating aid. Nothing ostentatious or too bright to distract us from the peaceful atmosphere. As each of us entered the warm water of the bath, we sighed with pleasure at the water, which felt warm at first compared to the winter air. Gradually, our bodies adapted to the temperature, basically the same as ours, 98.7 degrees. The water is not only warm, it is also full of minerals. It fizzes a bit, too, which some people noticed more than others. It contains magnesium and lithium, to name two, and many other beneficial minerals. Thomas Jefferson used to ride there on horseback to ease his arthritis. It must have been an uncomfortable ride, which took him a day and a half. He surely must have felt it was worth it. It is truly magic.

I want to go back to soak in the pools. I had forgotten how pleasant it is and how restorative. It is peaceful and still, yet there is the “life force” of the water, which is constantly moving. The air is warmer than outside due to the wooden structure surrounding the pool, but the ceiling is open, so the warm air escapes. The sun streamed in, and since it was a beautiful day, it was very cheerful. I remember being there years and years ago when it was snowing. The snowflakes drifted down like confetti. Floating in the warmth of the water was surreal.

When our time was up, we dressed languidly and then drove five minutes to The Homestead for a delicious lunch. We had wine because none of us had to drive except the designated drivers. The food was presented well and tasted marvelous. I could not finish my smoked turkey sandwich with its generous layer of avocado and bacon. I wish I had brought the rest home with me; it was so good.

After lunch, we lingered a bit in the great hall at The Homestead and admired the space, the cute little seating areas next to fireplaces that were burning with real logs. There are a lot of shops in an area off the main hall. I was tempted to buy but restrained myself. The idea formed in my head that taking the entire family there would be fun. We could stay for a few days as a group. It would be like being on an ocean-going ship, but it would be much easier for us to get there by car.  Once there, the options for entertainment are amazing. Golf,  lawn games, swimming, hiking, falconry, shooting clays, baths, and carriage rides. (Do they still have those?). Just basking in the fresh, unpolluted air is such a treat. There is a ski slope in the winter, and there may be ice skating.

The area is so beautiful and “otherworldly.” A far cry from the hustle and bustle of a big city and pristine in a way that is becoming rare. I recommend it.

I cannot wait to go back.

Copyright©. 2025 Bonnie B. Matheson

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